tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42902966863103880122024-03-05T07:28:16.916-08:00Dave and Belinda's Big Bike RideEurope, here we come!Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.comBlogger166125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-31403792418002556682011-09-06T00:14:00.001-07:002011-09-06T00:14:14.651-07:00History, more history and the end of a journeyThe British Museum is a world class museum that is free of charge. It displays an amazing collection of antiquities from Greece, Assyria, Egypt and many other places. It has such a large collection that it has special exhibits of artifacts from all over the world. All of this is open to the public and many people were at the museum on the rainy Sunday when we visited. We took a special interest in the Greek and Egyptian section. However we discovered treasures from Assyria as well.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/40.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_40.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/41.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_41.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/42.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_42.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/43.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_43.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/44.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_44.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/45.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_45.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The size of some of the pieces was astounding. There were huge columns from Egypt and magnificent gate sculptures that would flank a gate of an Assyrian palace.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/46.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_46.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />One of the special exhibits focussed on the museum's clock collection. It included many unique types of clocks, astronomical and regular, and the chronometer of the Beagle, the ship that Darwin sailed on. He wrote a book about his voyage on the Beagle and the experience was critical to his development of the theory of evolution.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/47.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_47.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Monday was our last day of sightseeing and we started at St. Paul's cathedral, the architectural masterpiece of Christopher Wren.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/48.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_48.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />It is an amazing cathedral and an icon in London. Our bus tour guide on Friday told us that his mum would come out after a bombing raid during the Blitz and would look for St. Paul's. If it was standing then everything was all right. The Germans tried to destroy St. Paul's and Buckingham palace. They managed to destroy the chapel of Buckingham palace, but the wood dome of St. Paul's was untouched.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/49.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_49.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We climbed all 528 stairs to the Golden gallery above the dome. <br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/50.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_50.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />No pictures were allowed inside so we can't show you the beautiful mosaics inside the transept or the frescoes in the dome. St. Paul's is the final resting place for the two most famous men in British military history, Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington. Their sumptuous caskets are on display in the crypt. This is the first cathedral we've visited with so many memorials to warriors (from the navy and the army). The final piece of history of the day <br />was the Tower of London.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/51.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_51.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />William the Conquerer built the White Tower which is in the center of the Tower grounds. Later monarchs built additional fortifications and towers that ring the White Tower. <br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/52.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_52.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The Tower was the place of royal beheadings during the reign of Henry VIII and is the repository of the crown jewels. However, it's main role over the ages has been an armory. It has an amazing collection of armor including three sets of armor for Henry VIII and an amazing collection of cannons and guns.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/53.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_53.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/54.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_54.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/55.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_55.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />In the old days the monarchs kept a menagerie of animals on the grounds. Today those animals are represented by very life like sculptures done in chicken wire.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/56.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_56.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There has always been a flock of ravens living at the Tower. Legend has it that if the ravens leave the Tower, the Tower and England will fall. These days the future of England is insured because the ravens wings are clipped.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/06/57.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/06/s_57.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Well.. Great Britain's end won't come until the ravens fly from the Tower of London, but our journey is at it's end. Tuesday we load boxed bikes and baggage on a plane and fly home. It has been a great trip and we are a little sad for it to end. However, we are somewhat homesick and are looking forward to be back with friends and family. We give a special thanks to everyone who has joined us through our blog and to those new friends we have made on the way. Love to all!<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-50294794948512861582011-09-05T00:19:00.001-07:002011-09-05T00:19:05.503-07:00Tramping around LondonOn Thursday we left Leicester after saying our goodbyes to Anne and Steadroy. We had contracted for a shuttle service to take us to London and our luggage (two bicycle boxes and three huge duffels) filled the van completely. On Friday we took the tube into central London to get the lay of the land by taking one of the double-decker bus tours. It was fun and our guide had a running commentary on the sights and British culture. We passed all the famous sights including the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham palace and the Tower of London.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/55.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_55.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/56.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_56.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/57.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_57.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/58.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_58.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We finished the day with a long walk along the south embankment of the Thames river. In Roman times the river was three times wider than now and the embankments cause the river to run very rapidly during tidal changes. We noticed that the current was very strong as shown with this boat tied up in the channel.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/59.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_59.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />On Friday we took a tour of the state rooms at Buckingham palace. It is an amazing place with a priceless art collection. We were lucky to get to visit the palace because tours are only given when the Queen is not in residence. She goes to Balmoral castle in August and September and then the public can visit. We were not allowed to take pictures of the gorgeous rooms and art. We saw paintings by Canaletto, Titian, Rembrandt, Reubens and many other well known artists. The sculpture gallery was full of neoclassical statues by Canova. There was priceless Sevres porcelain and life-size family portraits back to Charles II. George IV commissioned the architect John Nash to redesign the Queen's house used by George III and Queen Charlotte into Buckingham palace. Queen Victoria was the first monarch to live in the palace and its art and furnishings came from George IV's estate. After the palace, we spent the rest of the afternoon on foot and crossed Tower bridge.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/60.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_60.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/61.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_61.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br />We went to Trafalgar square and saw Nelson's column.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/62.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_62.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Heading back to the river we saw the Admiralty building and then enjoyed the unique London skyline dominated by St. Paul's cathedral and some unusual modern buildings.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/63.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_63.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/64.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_64.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/66.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_66.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/05/67.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/05/s_67.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The tower in the middle of the picture above is still under construction. When finished it will be the tallest building in Great Britain. Next we go to the British Museum and then on Monday we will visit the tower of London and Saint Paul's Cathedral.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-59301319582899787632011-09-01T09:18:00.001-07:002011-09-01T09:18:02.609-07:00Camping, Rain and the BluesWe left Newquay on Monday morning on a train. We had tickets to get to Leicester, but were advised that if the bicycle storage area was full in one train we would have to wait for another train with space. At Par, the train to Birmingham did not have bicycle space. The kind stationmaster, Dave, told us that we should take the following train to Plymouth and there was a train originating there for Birmingham. We could be the first to load our bikes on that train. Well it all transpired as Dave had advised us. It was also fortuitous that we had bought open tickets for Leicester because this meant we could use any trains or route combination to get there. They were more expensive tickets, but were just what we needed traveling with the bikes. At Birmingham we had to change platforms twice to get on a train with space for the bikes, but the station was well signed and there were very large elevators to take to the different platforms. We got into Leicester at <br />5:00 and checked into a hotel due to the fatigue of a long day starting at 6:30 and four changes of trains.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1829.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1829.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Tuesday morning we rode to Anne and Steadroy Henry's house in Wigston, just south of Leicester. As soon as we unloaded the bikes we went into their large garden and were shown their bountiful vegetable patch. On Wednesday we went on a grand tour of the area, visiting the local botanical garden and the old city center. The Roman baths in Leicester are the 2nd largest site of preserved Roman baths in England.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1831.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1831.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1832.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1832.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1833.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1833.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Leicester was a major shoe and hosiery factory town during the 19th century. It has been known as a magnet for Indian immigrants since the early 1900's. It is a city filled with many different immigrant groups and is very multicultural. Steadroy immigrated from Barbuda, in the Caribbean, to join a Barbudan community in Leicester in 1961. On Thursday we packed up their van for the weekend Blues festival. We headed north to Colne and camped at the local rugby club grounds. Here is our campsite that we set up knowing that it was going to rain. However, the picture was taken during one of the brief periods of sunshine during four days of rain!<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1834.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1834.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Music festivals in northern England are held indoors, so the rain jackets were pulled out each time we changed venues. There were two large stages in the municipal hall and the community center. The remaining venues were small stages in the local pubs.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1835.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1835.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />In addition, there was even a stage in a tent at the rugby club.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/09/01/1836.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/09/01/s_1836.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We saw some great acts on the main stage in the municipal hall, including Mavis Staples and Mud Morganfield, oldest son of Muddy Waters. We had some interesting moments in the campsite observing our fellow campers in various states of inebriation including one poor fellow who had lost his tent and was demanding loudly in the middle of the night to have it back. "I'm in a spot of trouble now" he said a little less loudly. It was a great weekend even though we were bailing water out of our covered dining area at one point in time. Back at Anne and Steadroy's house we boxed up the bikes and packed all the gear in readiness for our flight home. Today we said a fond farewell to Anne and Steadroy and traveled by hired van to a hotel near Heathrow Airport. Anne and Steadroy are a wonderful couple, great hosts, and special friends. We have tentative plans to meet them again in Barbuda this winter. Our hotel is near a tube station so we can ride the train to and from London and we have four days to explore.<br /><br /><br /><br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-21359673297060527122011-08-21T03:03:00.001-07:002011-08-21T03:03:32.245-07:00The north coast of CornwallWe left Penzance Thursday morning under cloudy skies and with a hopeful forecast of no rain. We once again headed towards the end of the peninsula and the town of St. Just. On the way there we spotted this stack. It is a remnant of the mining industry in this area.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/560.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_560.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There was a field full of heifers across the road and this inquisitive girl asked to get her picture taken. The cows and sheep have not seen a lot of bicyclists and will stare or stampede when we ride past.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/562.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_562.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />North of St. Just is the Levant Mine museum site. The north coast of Cornwall had a long history of copper and tin mining. There are deposits that become exposed on the cliffs and were mined in ancient times with diggings straight into the cliff. Later on in the 1800's vertical mine shafts were drilled in the cliff and then extended out under the sea floor. The submarine complex of the Levant mine extended for a mile out from the land.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/564.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_564.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There are mine shafts all over the land like the one pictured below and the stacks were associated with steam engines that powered equipment to raise and lower men and ore.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/565.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_565.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The Levant mine was one of the largest and most successful employing 550 men in it's heyday.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/566.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_566.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/567.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_567.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The beam steam engine is enormous.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/568.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_568.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />As we pedaled onward to St. Ives we enjoyed the beautiful vistas of the land meeting the sea.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/569.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_569.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />As we rode we realized the south coast of the peninsula is protected and heavily wooded, but the north coast is exposed and is a totally different landscape. The north coast has a history of more shipwrecks since it is a lee shore with a north wind blowing boats onto the rocks below the cliffs. On Friday we left St. Ives and had to endure another day of glorious Cornwall coast. The Hell's Mouth was spectacular.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/570.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_570.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We ate lunch across the road and the food at the cafe was not at all in keeping with it's name.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/571.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_571.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The heather is in full bloom and creates a beautiful tapestry of color across the hills.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/572.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_572.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/573.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_573.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We have been drinking a lot of St. Austell ale since we visited the brewery. There is another large brewery in Cornwall called Skinner's. One of it's popular ales is Betty Stogs. We like Betty and were curious about her legend.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/574.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_574.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />One barman said she was a prostitute. We did some further research and found out she was a wild girl who was raised by drunken parents. She got pregnant and was rushed to the altar with a local ne'er do well. She took to drinking after having the baby and didn't take care of it. So fairies came and took the child and cleaned it up. In the story, she and her husband are so scared by the loss of the baby that when they find it they give up drinking and live happily ever after. On the bottle and on the taps, Betty is represented in her dissolute state. A little further up the road were the North Cliffs.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/575.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_575.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We ended the day in St. Agnes in a B&B that was more like a boarding house. The old woman who ran it had a lot of family visiting and it was like a zoo. On Saturday we left St. Agnes in a light rain to ride the final 15 miles of our bicycle journey to Newquay. On the way there we spotted this sign and were glad we had not planned on visiting this attraction.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/576.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_576.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We have mentioned the steepness of the hills we have been cycling through so, although we did not go that way, this sign demonstrates the range of possibilities. Our European trip is coming to a close. We began our last full day of riding with a morning of rain, but then in the afternoon the weather cleared to a glorious Cornish afternoon.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/21/577.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/21/s_577.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Tomorrow we catch a train to Leicester and the hospitality of our friends Anne and Steadroy. Stay tuned.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-40626469933358335232011-08-18T09:41:00.001-07:002011-08-18T09:41:24.888-07:00Mount St. Michael (again?) and Land's EndOn Tuesday morning we were checking out of the Angel Hotel in Helston when the receptionist asked where we were going. When we mentioned Penzance, she asked if we wanted to stay in the Angel's sister hotel and then mentioned that to a gentleman in the office. He asked how we were getting there and we said by bicycle. He volunteered to take our luggage and so we rode unloaded to Penzance. It turned out that he was the owner of both hotels! As we got close to Penzance it was low tide and we looked across the bay and saw St. Michael's mount.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1974.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1974.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The tide was low enough to walk on the causeway to the island and we had unloaded bikes as well. Mont St. Michel and St. Michael's mount are two of the four places where the archangel Michael has been seen. He appeared in 495 at St. Michael's mount to warn some fishermen from washing up on the rocks. A religious community was founded on the mount and built a church and other buildings. The mount was transferred to the religious order at Mont St. Michel in 1080. Mont St. Michel's hold on the mount diminished during the 100 Years War with France. The religious community was disbanded during the reign of Henry VIII and the mount was held by various noblemen as a strategic fortification until 1659. In 1659 Colonel John St. Aubyn bought the mount and his heirs have made it the family home since then.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1975.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1975.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There are symbols of both the religious community and the fortified era.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1976.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1976.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1977.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1977.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />But it is a really neat residence that the St. Aubyn family has lived in for 12 generations.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1978.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1978.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1979.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1979.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1980.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1980.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We got on the bikes on Wednesday to ride to Land's End, the most western point of England. There was a drizzle that turned into rain that stopped after about 5 miles. Land's End is so famous that it has become a major tourist attraction. We rode up to huge parking lot with lots of cars and several tour buses. However, we were waved through on our bikes. This sign shows how many lighthouse beacons surround Land's End and it's dangerous rocks.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1981.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1981.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1982.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1982.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1984.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1984.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We ate our picnic lunch and then the sun came out. We had a glorious ride back to Penzance. On the way back we stopped at another stone circle, the Merry Maidens.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1985.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1985.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There are 19 stones in the circle and there is no concrete explanation for their use. However, they were given the name the Merry Maidens by the early Christian church. The legend was that 19 maidens were turned into stone for dancing on the sabbath. This legend was started to discourage the old pagan rites. We finished the day with dinner at the Admiral Benbow Inn. Our desert was a marvelous concoction called Irish Lumpy Bumpy.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/18/1987.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/18/s_1987.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />It consisted on a bottom layer of pound cake, covered by a layer of flavored cream, topped with whip cream, and then covered in caramel. Mmm... Good!<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-90175182616776751862011-08-17T10:16:00.001-07:002011-08-17T10:16:33.327-07:00Observations in southwest EnglandIn each new country on this trip we have had to learn some new roadsigns. Most of the signs are international and fairly easy to understand. Some of the signs we worked up translations for just to make sure our interpretation was right. In England, no translation is necessary but sometimes we have been at a loss. We saw the following sign in Dartmoor National park.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/17/2147.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/17/s_2147.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Zebras in Dartmoor? Here was the new zebra.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/17/2148.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/17/s_2148.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Most people associate double-decker buses with London. Here was the local bus in Helston.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/17/2150.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/17/s_2150.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />At the hotels we've had the most unusual bike storage areas. Yes, our bikes are in the cooler with the ales.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/17/2154.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/17/s_2154.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The VW van is alive and well as a vehicle in this area. This one is representative of many that we have seen.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/17/2156.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/17/s_2156.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We have ridden on some very small roads, lanes in fact. The traffic on the lanes goes slow and pulls into little wide spots to let other traffic go by. Here is one of the "wide spots".<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/17/2157.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/17/s_2157.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We have found the drivers to be patient and polite. Many main roads through small towns are reduced to one lane due to parked cars in one lane. Drivers from both directions approach that spot carefully and take turns passing through the area. We think that the physical dimensions of the roads have made drivers here to be thoughtful and considerate. By the way,you can tell you are in England when there is a sign in the bathroom saying "Please don't put tea bags down the toilet".<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-76283555051188655762011-08-16T01:26:00.001-07:002011-08-16T01:26:41.423-07:00The Lizard and Helford estuaryThe people of southwest England have been very helpful and kind. They remind us of the southern Italians since they are also eager to give us directions and recommendations of sights to see. In fact, we have changed our itinerary based on this advice. Land's End, which we will visit in a couple of days, has the reputation of being the southernmost point in England. However, that is wrong and Lizard Point has that honor. On Sunday, we rode out to Lizard and enjoyed the views and glorious sunshine.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/238.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_238.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/239.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_239.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/240.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_240.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The structure shown above is the old lifesaving station from 1914. We also stopped at Kynance cove with it's beautiful cliffs and beach.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/241.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_241.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/242.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_242.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />After our ride it was beer o'clock and we stopped at the famed Blue Anchor and enjoyed some of the best beer in Cornwall. We tried four different ales, Bens's Stout, the Special, an ale brewed in honor of the royal wedding of Will and Kate (WnK) and the Middle, the most popular ale. They were great and we also had a good time talking to two locals about the local fishery which includes crabbing and lobster pots.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/243.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_243.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />On Monday we headed out to see the Helford river estuary. Here is an example of some of the forest along the roads we have ridden during the last 12 days. The forest will often hang over the road as well and we plunge into the darkness of deep woods as we descend to a stream or creek.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/245.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_245.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We stopped at a local farm for a Cornish pasty for lunch. They are the fast food in this area, were filled with steak and potatoes, and were delicious.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/246.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_246.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The tide was quite low today and frustrated our efforts to take our 13th ferry ride. The picture below is from a tributary of the estuary.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/16/247.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/16/s_247.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We headed back to Helston in misty conditions. On Tuesday we head out for Penzance.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-2814680746848357322011-08-15T01:21:00.001-07:002011-08-15T01:21:37.633-07:00St. Austell to HelstonOn Thursday we spent an extra day in St. Austell and it was well worth it. We researched our train trip to central England to meet up with Anne and Steadroy Henry, went to the Charlestown shipwreck museum and witnessed a special event at the Charlestown harbor. We met a German family who was catching a train at the station with their bicycles and they told us their experiences on the English trains. We watched them load and depart and are prepared now. The special event at the harbor was a tall sailing ship leaving the inner harbor. The boat must be maneuvered by ropes to turn all the corners since the inner harbor entrance is at a right angle to the outer harbor. The inner harbor entrance is on the left hand side of the picture below. Dave got a video of the event, but we are unable to post it.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/68.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_68.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />On Friday we left St. Austell on the National Bicycle Network route 3. The first 7 miles were off road on a gravel walking path. That was fine until we had to climb over a hill and then it was very challenging and slow. We passed through Mevigissey and Portmellon the next two towns on the coast.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/72.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_72.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We had to push the bikes up very steep grades after each town. It started to rain after Portmellon and a little further down the road we saw this sight through the mist.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/75.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_75.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />It's a castle you can rent for a vacation! There were also small buildings on the estate for rent (gatehouse, gamekeeper's cottage, etc.). Here is a view of the headlands we came across in the morning.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/89.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_89.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The next town, Veryan, had these unusual round houses. They reminded us of the Italian trulli and the French windmill houses. The legend attached to the round shape is that the devil can't hide in the corner if there are no corners.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/103.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_103.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We stopped in Philleigh after 22 very challenging and damp miles. On Saturday we left Philleigh and within a short time were on the 12th ferry ride of our trip. Cornwall has many significant rivers draining to the coast and has utilized ferries to cross them rather than build a lot of bridges.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/116.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_116.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The ride to Helston got easier as the day progressed. We had left the bicycle route and had selected roads that had reasonable grades. We had lunch in this charming pub in Stithians.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/123.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_123.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />As we were leaving the pub, we met some people who asked where we were going. When we said Helston, we were given a hearty recommendation to try the Stingo ales at the Blue Anchor. Cornwall has many thatched cottages and this one particularly caught our eye.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/15/163.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/15/s_163.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We reached Helston and checked into the oldest hotel in town, The Angel, which has been in operation since the 1500's. We are going to spend a couple of days here exploring the Lizard peninsula and Helford river estuary with unloaded bikes.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-79024909652843849492011-08-10T14:43:00.001-07:002011-08-10T14:43:10.778-07:00Tavistock to St. AustellOn Sunday we left Tavistock as the sun was breaking out after early morning rain showers. We had an ambitious plan to get to St. Austell, but knew the plan was open to modification based on the hills. We had several climbs and steep descents. The countryside continued to be beautiful.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3857.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3857.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We decided to end the day in Liskeard a little early in order to get accomodations and some new brake pads. That was a good decision and we got a room in the 6th establishment on the list at the tourism office because all the other places were full. There was a nice couple from Australia at our B&B and we ended up having a great dinner together. They had been traveling for 9 weeks and we compared highlights of our trips to date. On Monday we left Liskeard and about 5 miles down the road and stopped at the Duloe stone ring.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3861.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3861.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />This is one of the many Neolithic sites in Great Britain that may have been used as a seasonal clock, a ritual ground or a tomb. We checked the orientation of the largest rocks and they all matched the 4 points of the compass exactly. A little further down the road we had to take a ferry across the Fowey river (11th ferry ride during the trip).<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3862.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3862.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We ate lunch and watched all sorts of small boat traffic in the port. This large boat headed out just before we left.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3869.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3869.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We got to St. Austell and decided that the fatigue in our legs called for a rest day. We had covered over 160 miles of challenging topography in 6 days. We found a nice B&B, cleaned up and headed to Charlestown harbor for dinner. It is a very unusual harbor with an outer harbor, subject to tidal change, and an inner harbor with a lock retaining the water.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3873.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3873.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3874.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3874.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />St. Austell is known for it's brewery. It is the largest brewery in Cornwall and one of the top 25 in the country. We had a great tour today, Wednesday, and learned some new facts about brewing beer. One of the most interesting facts we learned was about a yeast bank where the brewers send samples of their proprietary yeasts. This ensures that if they lose their yeast at the brewery, by accident or disaster, that they can get a replacement culture of the exact same yeast. We wondered whether American brewers have this safeguard. St. Austell ales are the best beer we have had in England and they are available at many pubs in Cornwall.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3875.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3875.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Flower gardens appear to be at their peak just now in this area.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/10/3878.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/10/s_3878.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Before sightseeing today we replaced the brake pads on Belinda's bike and lubed both chains so we are all ready to head out tomorrow. We have downloaded software from the National Bicycle Network that has maps of bike routes and works with the GPS in our iPad. We'll try a section of Route 3 tomorrow and see how it goes.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-47478802080336119972011-08-08T01:35:00.001-07:002011-08-08T01:35:23.475-07:00The MoorSunday morning was windy and the clouds were on the horizon. We headed west and soon came to Bovey Castle, a large English manor house.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/08/187.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/08/s_187.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The golf course next to the house had a challenging rough, your ball would be lost in a thicket of ferns or blackberries. A little farther down the road was a miniature horse farm.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/08/188.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/08/s_188.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We had several challenging climbs (well actually pushes of the bike) before we got up above the trees into the moor. We came around a corner and saw a herd of Dartmoor cattle. This fellow was right next to the road.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/08/189.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/08/s_189.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We've seen a lot of wildlife in the park including the fallow deer and the famed wild Dartmoor ponies. This mother and foal were spooked by our bicycles.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/08/190.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/08/s_190.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The flowers on the moor were small, but everywhere.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/08/192.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/08/s_192.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We had several rain showers during the day and a strong headwind all afternoon. The sky was dramatic and the landscape kept our attention.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/08/193.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/08/s_193.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />At the end of the day we descended off the moor into Tavistock. We canvassed the town but there were no rooms to be had. All five B&Bs and the one hotel were full. Rain was coming. The owner of the last B&B we tried knew of a B&B 3.5 miles outside of town and kindly called for us. They had a room. We booked the room and then had dinner at a restaurant in town before riding out to our B&B. We arrived in the rain and got a very warm welcome from our hosts, Tony and Jane. Tomorrow we ride towards the coast again and hope to get as far as St. Austell, we'll just have to see what the bicycling gods have in store for us.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-85238573238905108052011-08-07T09:00:00.001-07:002011-08-07T09:00:25.526-07:00Entering Dartmoor National ParkWe left Exeter this morning climbing a 13% grade for two miles. Then we climbed into Dartmoor National Park. The scenery was drop-dead gorgeous and though the sky was ever changing, we did not get rained on. We will begin to modify our earlier condemnation of the weather in England.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/1997.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_1997.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Dartmoor National Park is not like the national parks in the States. It is not wilderness. 80% of the park is held privately, most used as grazing land.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/1998.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_1998.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We faced significant challenges on the way into the park.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2001.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2001.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We crossed Steps Bridge, an 18th century bridge.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2002.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2002.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Belinda made a beautiful friend.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2003.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2003.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2004.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2004.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />When we reached the town of Moretonhampstead we could not find any place to stay, but a quarter mile out of town we found a room in this B&B, Moorcote.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2005.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2005.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />After settling into our room and cleaning up we walked back into town to eat dinner at The Union Inn.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2006.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2006.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />This was clearly the town's social center. We have been enjoying the pub scene in England very much. It is the place to meet and greet. The locals are generously friendly and curious about us travelers. This evening we learned much about how football (soccer) leagues are organized, player salary structures, etc. from one couple and later had a conversation with a man who was largely responsible for the early administration of Dartmoor National Park. It was a interesting evening and ended with this view from our bedroom window.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/07/2010.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/07/s_2010.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-35480493732700897492011-08-05T12:16:00.001-07:002011-08-05T12:16:32.334-07:00England So FarOn Wednesday we took the ferry to Weymouth and here is our last view of the castle in the harbor of Jersey.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/05/2921.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/05/s_2921.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Weymouth is one of the southcoast beach scenes and reminded us of Santa Cruz. There were all sorts of amusements, ice cream parlors, a merry go round, and games, along the beach. The picture below is from the beachfront in Weymouth.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/05/2926.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/05/s_2926.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We got a room in a guesthouse along the strand (beach), The Gloucester House run by Geoff and Chris, who treated us very well.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/05/2927.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/05/s_2927.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Thursday morning we awoke to rain, but we loaded up the bikes and were praised by the other guests as being very intrepid. It was a new country for us and each country has required a period of time to learn the type of roads that work best for cycling, the typical business hours, and work out a daily general plan for our trip. This adjustment period has not been pleasant for any of the countries we have entered. When we went from Greece to Italy we felt like going back to Greece, but then we caught on to how things worked and began to enjoy ourselves. Similarly, when we entered France, for a few days we said to one another "let's go back to Italy". In the end France spoiled us with great cycling. We now are in this adjustment period in England. We hope we don't get too whiney, BUT, the roads suck, the traffic sucks, and the weather sucks! However the scenery has been gorgeous, and the beer and the pubs have been fun, so there's hope.<br /><br />Later in the day on Thursday as the rain let up and the sky lightened, we got this photo looking back the way we came.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/05/2928.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/05/s_2928.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The riding has been very difficult since the English roads don't have any switchbacks. The area southwest of Weymouth is called the Jurassic Coast from the geological time that formed the land. The area has many small steep hills and the English roads just go straight up to the top. From Weymouth we rode to Seaton on Thursday and here are some of the hills.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/05/2929.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/05/s_2929.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/05/2930.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/05/s_2930.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />On Friday we left Seaton and climbed out of the town on a road with a 10%+ grade. That was just a warmup for two hills later in the day, one a climb and one a descent, with grades of 20%. We adjusted our mileage expectation for the day and, with cow pies in our tire tread, we parked our bikes in a hotel room in Exeter. We'll rework a plan for tomorrow.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-2583609386979146702011-08-02T13:50:00.001-07:002011-08-02T13:50:40.947-07:00JerseyJersey is one of the Channel Islands, a group of islands close to the French coast, but part of Britain. We got off the ferry from St. Malo on Monday morning and went right to a diner and had an English breakfast. We had left the hotel so early that we missed petit dejeuner (French breakfast). Then it was off to exchange our euros for pounds and go to the tourist office. We have become fans of the tourist offices in Europe for several reasons. They can provide detailed maps of the towns, lists of accomodations, availability of rooms, and will even help you get a room. This is very helpful to bicycle tourists who are tired and do not want to ride around looking for accomodations. We checked into a hotel and then went exploring the town. We stopped for a beer and met two wonderful young men, Neil and Tom.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/02/3626.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/02/s_3626.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />They are Jersey locals and we discussed many things, local and international. It was a great time and we learned many things about Jersey. It has one of the largest tidal changes in the world at 40 ft., is world renowned for the products from it's Jersey cows, and is the warmest place in Britain.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/02/3629.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/02/s_3629.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />After saying goodbye to Neil and Tom, we went to Liberation square. The sculpture behind Belinda represents the islanders raising up the Union Jack in May 1945 after 5 years of occupation by the Germans. The evening low tide was quite apparent in the harbor.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/02/3633.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/02/s_3633.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />This morning, Tuesday, we went sightseeing around the island on our bikes. There are bike paths/trails on the quiet roads passing by the major sights on the island.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/02/3634.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/02/s_3634.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />This sculpture is to commemorate the rescue of all 307 passengers and crew of a shipwreck in 1995 just off the lighthouse.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/02/3638.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/02/s_3638.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We ended our sightseeing at a winery that produces excellent wine, apple brandy, and Jersey black butter (carmelised apple butter). Tomorrow we take the ferry to Weymouth, England and begin the last leg of our trip across Europe.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-91434535200856434202011-08-01T12:43:00.001-07:002011-08-01T12:43:05.552-07:00St. Malo, au revoir FranceWe left Pontorson on Sunday and had one last look at Mont St. Michel over the salt grass marshes. The road to St. Malo was easy and filled with roadside stands for local vegetables (especially garlic) and the famous oysters from the isle of Cancale in the bay of Mont St. Michel.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3257.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3257.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The wheat harvest has been in high gear in this region with large harvesters going up and down the road all day. We greatly admired this delightful haybale artwork in a field along the road.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3260.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3260.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We got to St. Malo and headed to the old city near the ferry terminal to the Channel islands of Britain. The old town was destroyed in 1944, but rebuilt with the same plan and style of buildings. The cathedral was not seriously damaged and is similar to the cathedral at Mont St. Michel is a combination of styles. It has Norman, Gothic, and Renaissance elements.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3262.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3262.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3264.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3264.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />St. Malo is a beach town and the beaches are right outside the fortified walls.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3268.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3268.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3269.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3269.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The pool area shown above is a way to retain a swimming area when the tide goes out. The tidal change is quite large and one can walk all the way to the far island when the tide is out. The high tides fill the pool every day. St. Malo had a great assortment of shops, restaurants and bars. One could really have a swinging good time at this bar!<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/08/01/3271.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/08/01/s_3271.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />This morning we caught the 8:00 am ferry to Jersey and have left France. France is a beautiful country and we enjoyed traveling through it very much. We also met and made some great friends. Thanks to Leo and Steph for wonderful hospitality and advice. A special thanks to Bernard and Helene for their hospitality and a much needed respite from the rigors of the road. <br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-10013076523787607132011-07-31T07:41:00.001-07:002011-07-31T07:41:40.689-07:00Mont Saint-Michel<br />Our first picture is from breakfast at our chambres d'hôte outside Gorron. The point is to show how delightfully large the coffee servings have been in France. In Greece and Italy we only got tiny little doll sized cups of coffee (expresso). Even in Italy if we asked for cafe americano it was about two doll cups size. But here in France, if you stipulate cafe, you get a mug or sometimes even a bowl full.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1876.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1876.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />On Friday the ride to Pontorson, just 9k south of Mont Saint- Michel, was through pretty rolling farm land (bored with this yet? Well...that's just what it was). We have been seeing houses with beautiful gardens like this one.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1877.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1877.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />As we got closer to Pontorson we began to smell the sea air, which stimulated our appetite for sea food. We had moules and frites for dinner.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1878.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1878.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />They were great and we can understand why the people have been eating them with such gusto. Saturday morning we decided to take the local bus out to the mount. The highway was marked as a red road and would have a lot of traffic; we also couldn't envision where we would leave the bikes during our wandering. Well the bus was a great decision, the road was busy and there was a huge parking lot with no bicycle parking. Mont St. Michel was the 4th most important Christian pilgrimage site after Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago de Compestela.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1879.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1879.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The initial sanctuary was built on the site in 708. In 966, Richard I grandfather of William the conquerer, established a Benedictine abbey on the site. They proceeded to build 4 chapels near the top of the mount which would later be the foundations of the Romanesque-Gothic church. These massive columns are under the church and hold up the altar area.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1880.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1880.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1881.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1881.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The original church was all Romanesque style (round arches in the front of the picture), but the original transept collapsed and was replaced in the Gothic style (pointed arches in the back of the picture). Being an abbey, there were areas for meditation and study.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1883.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1883.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1884.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1884.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The place is an architectural marvel, similar to the Pope's palace, with 4 levels of buildings on top of each other.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1885.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1885.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We had lunch in the fortified town below the abbey and noticed this terrier taking advantage of the rights of dogs in France.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/31/1886.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/31/s_1886.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Dogs are allowed in shops, bars, hotels and restaurants in France. They are very well behaved and seem to have earned their privileges. The tourist crowds were large and walking the streets below the abbey was difficult. We were glad to get on the bus and go back to quiet Pontorson and enjoy an excellent meal at the hotel. Belinda had a marvelous squid stuffed with risotto and we enjoyed a bottle of old vine Pinot Noir which had subtle fruit flavors and a dry finish. It was quite unlike our Monterey county Pinot, but very good. Sunday we head to St. Malo on our last full day in France.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-74841254466348043392011-07-30T00:15:00.001-07:002011-07-30T00:15:54.516-07:00Angers to GorronWe left Angers and the Loire river on Wednesday morning. Our goal was to hook up with the bike path along the Mayenne river and finish the day at Laval. We rode 37.5 kms before we got to Daon and the start of the bike path. It is not a paved bike path, but has a well packed fine gravel surface. It is a delightful bike path and the river scenery can't be beat.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/24.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_24.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There are many chateaus in close proximity to the river.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/25.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_25.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/26.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_26.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We saw these neat chain driven automobiles at a small town next to the bike path.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/27.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_27.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/28.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_28.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The Mayenne river locks were constructed in the 1800's and many are associated with old mill house locations along the river.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/29.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_29.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/30.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_30.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We stopped at Laval for the night and ate at a brasserie which had specialities from the Alsace region of France. We ordered the pork choucroute plate which was a selection of four types of cured or smoked pork and a wonderful sauerkraut. It really hit the spot after 87 kms of riding.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/31.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_31.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Thursday morning we left Laval and had to endure another 36 kms of gorgeous scenery along the Mayenne river.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/33.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_33.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/34.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_34.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The house pictured above is one of our dream chateaus. A beautiful house in a beautiful setting with waterfront access. It also epitomizes one of the things we've seen in France. The French seem to maintain the architectural style of the location in new buildings. There is clearly an addition to the old structure pictured above, but the new part has the same roof line and style. We have observed this same thing in the newer homes on the periphery of an old village; they will have the same roofline, roof tiles, and architectural style as the rest of the village. We were unable to make Fougeres on Thursday due to hilly terrain after leaving the river and another potentially long day (90 kms). We saw the sign for a chambres d'hotes and got directions in a small town called Brece. Madame Gisele Lebullenger welcomed us into her home with cold orange juice and water. As you can see, it was a serene and welcoming destination in the country.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/30/35.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/30/s_35.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Traveling along bike paths on the Loire and Mayenne Rivers got us thinking how much fun kayak trips on either or both rivers would be. Could there be a kayak journey through France in the future? Maybe after kayaking some of the Greek coast! So much to do!<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-40440668974918018602011-07-26T23:29:00.001-07:002011-07-26T23:29:24.922-07:00Angers, the Dukes of Anjou, and good king ReneAngers is the hometown of the Anjou Plantagenet dynasty. In 851, the Count of Anjou set up a lookout post at the confluence of the Loire and Maine rivers to deal with marauding Normans. The spot had also been occupied in Neolithic and Roman times. From the 13th to the 15 centuries a fortress was built and expanded and is known as the Angers chateau.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6112.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6112.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6113.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6113.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />It has 17 massive towers, a beautiful chapel, a royal residence, gardens, a governor's house, and a massive moat. The moat was never filled with water and housed King Rene's menagerie. It has been filled with gardens since 1910.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6114.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6114.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The chateau houses the famous Apocalypse tapestry, the largest and oldest tapestry in existence. It was commissioned by the Duke of Anjou, Louis I, in 1375, took 7 years to complete and was 140 meters long and 4.5 meters tall. It tells the story of the Apocalypse based on an 11th century text of St. John. The surviving remnant is only 100 meters long!<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6115.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6115.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The detail and artistry of the tapestry is amazing.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6116.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6116.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6117.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6117.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The four horsemen of the Apocalypse are represented, as well as floods, fire, and the fall of Babylon. The number seven plays a significant role and the devil is a 7 headed dragon. The tapestry was housed for 400 years in the local cathedral after King Rene died and was buried there. It is a gothic cathedral in the Angevin style.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6118.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6118.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6119.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6119.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We also visited a local museum containing the work of a local sculptor who was world renowned in the 1800's. David D'Angers sculpted 40 large pieces as commissions for towns and cities across Europe. His statues are representations of important historical figures and the museum houses the plaster originals.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6120.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6120.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6121.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6121.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />He also sculpted portrait busts of important men living at the time. He did this out of respect for their accomplishments and in the process got to know some very important people. The gallery of busts includes writers, scientists, musicians and political figures. Goethe and Lafayette are shown below.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6122.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6122.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6123.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6123.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The city contains many old houses from the late 1300's and early 1400's with amazing wood carvings on the facades.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/6124.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_6124.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Over the years we have tried to eat at a Mexican restaurant in each country we visit. So far, in two visits each, this goal has eluded us in Italy and Greece. Last night we found a Mexican restaurant in France and enjoyed a great meal complete with jalapenos!<br /><br />Angers is a fascinating city that deserves more exploration than we have time to give it. But today we ride north on a two or three day journey to Mont St. Michel to see the famous monastery there.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-15807153628615274682011-07-26T08:39:00.001-07:002011-07-26T23:31:50.117-07:00Three days of countrysideWe left Lucon on Saturday and have had three days of riding on small country roads and bike trails through farmland and small forested areas.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/1966.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_1966.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br />Since La Rochelle we have been in an old part of France with almost every village having a medieval church. When we see the steeple we know the next village is close. The weather has been cool and overcast with some light drizzle at times. On Sunday we continued north from Montaigu toward the Loire river. Two villages we passed through were having their annual fetes. The fete is a village party held sometime around July 14 and we seen posters advertising all sorts of entertainment at the different fetes. In the first village we were a little lost when we got to the main square. A group of four young men tried to help us, but they were so drunk they couldn't read the map. That was at 11:30 am and the rest of the village seemed to heading toward the same state of inebriation. In the second village, the fete seemed much more sedate and appeared to be a big luncheon at the park. This old Citroen was parked near where we ate lunch.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/1967.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_1967.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br />We got to the Loire river and crossed over the bridge to Ancenis at the end of day.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/1970.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_1970.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br />The Loire is France's biggest river and is 1000 kms long. It is deemed to be Europe's wildest river, since it is not dammed. The current is very strong and there are large islands and sand banks in the middle of the river and large levees along the sides.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/1971.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_1971.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br />We rode 66 km along the river on the bike trail on Monday and at one point were riding on one of the islands in the middle of the river.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/1973.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_1973.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br />We saw a lot of bicycle tourists on the bike trail and learned that that the trail originates in Nevers near the headwaters of the Loire and ends at the Atlantic ocean near St. Nazaire. We rode the bike trail all the way into Angers, our goal for Monday. There were some nice summer homes close to the city.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/26/1975.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/26/s_1975.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br />Angers has a marvelous chateau that is built on a location that has been fortified since Neolithic times. We will visit that and other wonders of Angers tomorrow.<br /><br /><br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-78117585766628818942011-07-23T13:59:00.001-07:002011-07-23T13:59:27.971-07:00Heading North<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/23/3316.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/23/s_3316.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />As we left La Rochelle, we realized there was some additional information to share about the region. Food wise, we left the land of duck and pate just north of Pau and entered the land of mussels (moules) and oysters (huitres) at Royan. There are many mussel and oyster beds on the extensive tidal mudflats north of Royan and continuing past La Rochelle. You can order a pot of mussels cooked many different ways and it comes with fries (moules et frites). The French in this area must commonly eat mussels, because even young children order them in the restaurants and eat them with gusto.<br />The strategic location of La Rochelle has been critical many different times in history. It is the easiest port to reach for resupply after coming up the coast of Africa. Many ships would resupply at La Rochelle saving sailing up the Gironde (to Bordeaux) or the Loire (to Nantes) before crossing the Atlantic ocean. La Rochelle was a stopover for slave ships and a point of immigration for settlers of Nouvelle France (Louisiana and Canada). It was also important for the German U-boat fleet during WW II. We saw the German U-boat bunker on our way out of town. It was used for the filming of Das Boat.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/23/3317.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/23/s_3317.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We took a bike path through the farmland as we headed north parallel to the coast. The land was flat and full of corn and sunflowers. We could have been in Kansas.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/23/3318.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/23/s_3318.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We spent Friday night at Lucon, yet another town with a medieval church.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/23/3319.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/23/s_3319.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We are in another part of France with rolling countryside composed of rich farmland and cute villages.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/23/3320.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/23/s_3320.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The corn is high, the grazing land is rich and the cows are fat.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/23/3321.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/23/s_3321.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We enjoy the rolling hills much more that the flat farmland. The scenery and the bicycling are just more interesting and the day seems to fly by.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-68972637420965525292011-07-21T13:15:00.001-07:002011-07-21T13:15:48.938-07:00La RochelleWe planned on visiting La Rochelle due to the many references to it in English naval history. It became part of England when Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry Plantagenet (Henry II). Here is a remnant of the castle he built on the Rue du Palais (Palace St.).<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3276.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3276.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />La Rochelle was besieged by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627 when it was a hotbed of Protestantism. The siege lasted over a year and over 20,000 citizens of the town died before surrendering. Here is a painting of Richelieu on the barrier built outside the fortified harbor which prevented the British from aiding La Rochelle during the siege.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3277.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3277.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />La Rochelle has passed between England and France many times and was in a strategic position for trade. After the siege in 1628 all the fortifications were removed except the three towers at the entrance to the harbor. The Lanterne tower below was constructed in 1372 and became a lighthouse in 1468. It later became a prison and has the graffiti of numerous sailors carved into the walls.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3278.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3278.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The St. Nicholas tower construction started in 1345 and was completed in 1372. It was used mainly for defense and the chain across the inner harbor entrance was attached to it's base.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3279.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3279.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The Chaine tower had the winch system for the chain across the harbor and was an artillery tower. However, the top 14 meters were blown off in an explosion around 1650 and it is only 20 meters tall now.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3280.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3280.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The cathedral of St. Louis was designed by the king's architect and completed in 1742. It contains some marvelous paintings in it's side chapels and stain glass windows above the nave.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3281.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3281.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The organ is also impressive.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3282.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3282.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />After dinner on Tuesday night, we stopped in a local shop to taste cognac. Cognac is produced in a region just to the northeast of La Rochelle. The grapes are grown exclusively for cognac and are deemed unacceptable for wine. We tasted 12 and 25 year old cognac and an aperitif called pineau. Pineau is produced in the same region and is made from the first press of grapes with an addition of cognac. It is like a very fine light port.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3284.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3284.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Wednesday we visited a local museum which had artwork depicting the seige in 1627-1628, a collection of high quality antique china from the region, and the Asian art collection of a French diplomat stationed in southeast Asia who was from La Rochelle. The collection of antique buddhas, wood carvings, and samurai armor was world class. We particularly liked this alabaster and gold Buddha that is about 3 ft. tall.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3286.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3286.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Thursday we went to the maritime museum and toured three ships, a port tug, a commercial trawler, and a meteorological research vessel. <br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3287.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3287.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There was a self guided tour and we saw every part of the ships, engine rooms, quarters, galleys, bridges, etc.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3288.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3288.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/21/3289.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/21/s_3289.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Next we continue our way north towards St. Malo. We will be inland once again and will pass through the Loire river valley. Hopefully the weather will be clearing at least for a few days.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-66742849583449583292011-07-19T13:20:00.001-07:002011-07-19T13:20:44.771-07:00Observations along the wayWe've been drinking local vintages in each area we've visited and learned some more about wine making in France during our stay in Pauillac. There seem to be two types of winemaking tradition. One creates wines to drink in the short term and these are aged in steel vats. They are described as wines to drink now. Wines placed in wood barrels are more complex and will be aged longer and drunk after some aging. They are described as being from wood. Many of the red wines produced in the Medoc region are blends of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. The French select wine based on the label, not on the type of grape.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/19/3795.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/19/s_3795.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Sunday we left Pauillac heading north to the end of the peninsula. The Gironde river remained a large muddy river all the way to the mouth. The vineyards ended and the land was used for pasture. The villages on the peninsula got smaller and smaller and further apart. We stopped in a convenience store/bar for lunch and it was clearly the only social outlet around. A goat owner/cheese maker was there with his herding dog, a local fisherman was telling stories about his boat, a young man described the accident which ruined one side of his car, other locals came and went, and we listened as we ate our bread, salami and cheese. At the end of the peninsula, we took a ferry across the river mouth to Royan. The ferry ride was rough since there was a large swell coming in the river mouth and the wind was howling in off the ocean. We stayed the night in Royan and the town was hopping with tourists. There is apparently some good surfing nearby as we saw a couple of familiar surfing stores in town, Quicksilver and O'Neill's. Wandering about looking for a place to eat dinner we came on an Indian restaurant. Well it was a no brainer! We hadn't had anything truly spicy in quit a while. It was wonderful and left our mouths tingling. Monday morning we left Royan with the goal of La Rochelle. However, we got lost just north of Royan and added an extra 10 kms getting back on track. We passed some delightful houses in the countryside along the way.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/19/3796.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/19/s_3796.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We decided to end the day in Rochefort after 65 kms. After a good night's rest, we headed out Tuesday morning to finish the ride to La Rochelle. We had a strong headwind the whole way, but the small towns on the way provided some relief.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/19/3798.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/19/s_3798.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />La Rochelle has a lot of maritime history and was passed back and forth between England and France many times as English and French rulers changed. It was well known for it's fortifications and inaccessibility during low tide. We approached the towers protecting the old port just at low tide.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/19/3802.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/19/s_3802.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Tomorrow we will take a day off the bikes to explore the maritime museum and other attractions of La Rochelle.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-50891361064526214252011-07-16T13:30:00.001-07:002011-07-16T13:30:50.185-07:00Touring the chateausSaturday we rode the bikes around the area surrounding Pauillac. It is a region of the Medoc with some very well known wines. The Medoc is one of the six major wine growing areas around Bordeaux. It is well known because of the Rothschild labels (Mouton Rothschild and Lafite Rothschild). The first chateau we saw north of Paulliac was Lafite Rothschild.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3845.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3845.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Just down the road was the most unique chateau we've seen, Cos D'Estournel.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3846.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3846.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3847.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3847.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3848.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3848.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Other chateaus were sprinkled along our meandering route.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3849.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3849.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3850.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3850.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/16/3851.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/16/s_3851.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />There are a number of different architectural styles represented, but the buildings are relatively new and date from the 1800's. We stopped for lunch in St. Stephe and the rain started as we ate under the shelter of a bandstand at the school. We rode back to Pauillac in the rain and were glad when we got under cover. We ended our day by watching a very exciting stage of the Tour de France on TV, a gutty performance by all the favorites. Tomorrow we leave Pauillac and we will finish on the north side of the River Gironde.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-70968227226679413162011-07-15T14:00:00.001-07:002011-07-15T14:00:32.864-07:00Heading towards the MedocWednesday morning we left St. Parentis around 9:00 in a light drizzle after watching heavy downpours come down from 7 - 8:30. The weather began to clear after lunch. We had seen guacamole on the menu for a couple of days and ordered it.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3158.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3158.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />It was good, but we missed some good tortilla chips. We continued on north through pine forest, but got closer to the beach. We learned later that there are over a million square hectares of pine forest on France's southern coast. The beaches are natural and the resort areas have simple wooden structures. These are definitely not Italian beaches.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3161.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3161.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Just south of Archachon, we saw the largest sand dune in France. It is just over 100 meters tall and is a dramatic sight on the coast.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3165.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3165.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The bay of Archachon is unique in having an outlet to the sea. We had ridden around several lakes on the way north. In the past, they had been open to the sea, but the rivers flowing into them were not strong enough to keep the sandbars from forming and closing off the lakes from the ocean. However, the river flowing into the bay has a strong current and the tidal flow in and out of Archachon is significant. We arrived at high tide when the bay covers 150 square kilometers. When we left on Thursday morning it was low tide when the bay only covers 40 square kilometers. Wow! Boaters really have to plan their outings according to the tides!<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3168.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3168.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3171.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3171.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Thursday was a long day (96 kilometers), but we had a tailwind for nearly 33 kilometers. We ended up camping next to small chateau that was a chambres d'hotes. There was no room at the inn, but the owners graciously allowed us to camp on the grounds.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3172.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3172.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Friday morning we had a nice breakfast in the chateau before heading towards Paulliac in the heart of the Medoc region north of Bordeaux. The chateaus along the road were breathtaking.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3173.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3173.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/15/3174.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/15/s_3174.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Chateaus fairly dotted the countryside. They stuck out on the skyline, here, there, everywhere. Tonight we are in Pauillac, just south of some of the really famous wine chateaus. Tomorrow we will go without luggage to make a circuit of some of the most architecturally interesting chateaus.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-90000211339033179052011-07-13T07:16:00.001-07:002011-07-13T07:16:49.609-07:00Leaving Pau and heading to BordeauxWe left Pau on Sunday morning after taking pictures with Bernard and Helene under the flags they hung to welcome us.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/13/1498.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/13/s_1498.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />They accompanied us on the road for 42 kms to Sault-de-Navailles where we had a wonderful picnic lunch together before saying our final goodbyes.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/13/1499.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/13/s_1499.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/13/1501.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/13/s_1501.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />As we headed out of town, we saw the local library in this delightful building.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/13/1502.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/13/s_1502.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We ended the day in Montfort-en-Chalosse on the route to Bordeaux recommended to us by Bernard. Monday morning we left Montfort and headed into the last cornfields before reaching the coast. In the area north and west of Pau, the amount of corn and its vigor are impressive. Bernard commenting on the local agriculture said "corn, corn everywhere". Here is a farmhouse swimming in a sea of corn.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/13/1503.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/13/s_1503.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We started into the pine forest just after Dax. In the Aquitaine, the land along the coast is essentially sand dunes with a pine forest. Just after Leon we picked up the Atlantic coast bike path in France.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/13/1504.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/13/s_1504.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We camped near the beach at St. Girons and had some great people watching. The campground was very nice with campsites under the trees, showers, store, pool and a restaurant. Tuesday morning we headed north along the bike path. All day we rode through the piney woods along the bike path. There was a lot of traffic along the bike path, families, fitness riders, and bicycle tourists like us. The bike path pavement was not always smooth and the bike traffic heavy. Twice we diverted to small, lightly traveled roads to make better time. We ended the day at a small hotel along the road St. Parentis. The rain just started.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4290296686310388012.post-64167277189870529502011-07-10T12:41:00.001-07:002011-07-10T12:41:20.812-07:00Three days of R&R in JuranconWe arrived in Jurancon on Wednesday night and Helene had a wonderful dinner of Poulet Basquaise (chicken prepared with a Basque recipe). It had tomatoes, onions, herbs and was served over rice. However, the meal started with a delightful aperitif of local Jurancon wine and this was an indicator of the fine wines we would enjoy over the next 3 days. On Thursday we headed into Basque country. The Basque country straddles the border between France and Spain into the Pyrenees from the Atlantic coast. It has many small villages and each village has a unique heritage. The first village we visited is on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and is St. Jean pied du Port.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3717.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3717.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The Basque houses are usually painted red and white. We had an excellent lunch of trout (caught that morning) and then headed out to the next village.<br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3718.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3718.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Espelette could be called Pepper town, its specialty is the Basque piment (pepper) and they are hanging from many buildings in the town.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3719.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3719.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3720.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3720.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />The third village we visited, Ainhoa, had a wonderful traditional Basque church. In the traditional Basque church the men sit in pews in balconies above the main aisle to look down on all the women and you can see the balconies in this picture.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3721.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3721.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />On Friday after going to the local market day in Jurancon, we were off to the Pyrenees to the Col du Souler (part of the Tour de France on July 15) and the Col d'Aubisque.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3722.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3722.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3723.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3723.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3724.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3724.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3725.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3725.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Saturday was the day to clean up the bikes, work on the route to Bordeaux, and go into Pau. We worked hard all day and then headed into Pau. Pau was a fashionable place for health in the late 1800's and many wealthy British people came to live in Pau. It has a lot of parks and promenades in addition to a 17th century castle.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3726.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3726.jpg' border='0' width='210' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Bernard and Helene took very good care of us with gourmet meals and first class local wines.<br /><br /><center><a href='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/show_photo.php?p=11/07/10/3727.jpg'><img src='http://photo.blogpressapp.com/photos/11/07/10/s_3727.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='210' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />We got everything we needed; rest, relaxation, and great company. Thank you, Bernard and Helene.<br />Dave and Belindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08367299165355402867noreply@blogger.com4